The Olympus Pen EES-2 is one of the easiest cameras I’ve ever tinkered on. It’s a repairman’s dream (unlike the Pen FT, which is a nightmare in comparison).

The Pen EES-2 has two shutter speeds: 1/30 and 1/200. The camera automatically selects which speed to use. Although in flash mode only 1/30 is used. Basically, without flash, it is a point and shoot camera that has zone focusing. The metering is done via lock-needle in the AUTO position only. There is a red flag that pops up in the viewfinder if light conditions are beyond the scope of the metering. There is no manual exposure position unless you get tricky and use the flash settings and a handheld meter.

It’s a very compact yet terrific little camera.

I have two EES-2’s and they both had identical problems: the aperture stuck shut. Btw, this was both’s only problem! Other than the aperture blades sticking together they seem very reliable. And even this problem is minor, being a friction problem caused because of dust, oils, condensation and…time. A little heavier spring tension from the factory might have helped.

If you’ve read the Demi article on stuck shutters you’ll understand exactly what we will be doing here. Only we’ll be doing it to the aperture. In the Demi article we only did a halfway job, we didn’t fully disassemble the shutter mechanism. And there is a good reason! The Demi shutter is very hard to get at and not that easy to assemble/disassemble. However, on the EES-2 it is so easy to take apart we’ll do a complete job.

Let’s begin…

Around the front element you’ll see a chrome ring. This ring is driven by the focusing ring on the outer periphery of the lens. We must use care not to lose the focus adjustment. This chrome ring is setscrewed to the front element and turns the front element during focusing. There are 3 setscrews around the perimeter and they take a very small slot screwdriver.

Before removing this chrome ring, turn the focus to the infinity position. i.e. the mountain icon. Loosen the setscrews about a turn and a half each. Do not fully unscrew the setscrews, they’ll be hard to get back in. Now lift the chrome ring straight up being careful not to turn the front element. Measure from the outer edge of the element to the metal base and record this distance. Alternately you can mark the position, say at twelve o’clock, then screw the element in and recording the amount of turns/degrees it moves until bottoming out. I think measuring is easier and maybe more accurate.

That is the hardest thing we’ll have to do!

Now with your fingers unscrew the front element. Then remove the 3 screws holding the selenium cell to the front of the lens. Leave the 2 screws that hold the cell pieces together. To make life a little easier, remove the bottom cover so the meter wires can be stretched out longer and the lens lain flat.

Remove the 3 screws holding the brass middle element/aperture housing to the shutter housing. Leave the screw holding the auto detent lever in place. Once removed 3 brass screws can be seen that retain the aperture blades. Before removing these screws note the position of the aperture blades in the aperture bracket and loosen the screw that retains the blade pivot. Remove the 3 screws and pull the aperture out of the slot in the side of the housing. Do not lose the 3 brass washers beneath the aperture plate, they space the plate from the housing allowing clearance for the blades.

After the pivot screw is loosened sufficiently, the blades can be spread (do not remove the blades from their pivot) on a clean, flat surface and swabbed with Ronsonol, dried and rubbed with graphite if necessary. Neither of my EES-2’s needed the graphite treatment. Be VERY, VERY careful not to bend the blades. Also do not touch with fingers.

After cleaning, reassemble the aperture components. The brass washers will be frustrating to position but, trust me, it’s possible. Adjust the blades, using the pivot screw as a lock, so when activating the cam pin the blades open equally.

Reassemble everything in reverse order paying close attention to two things: all dust is blown from glass areas. And the first element is positioned the proper distance out to maintain correct focus. Remember to have focus ring set to the mountain icon.

Olympus Pen EES-2 Aperture Repair
by Henry Taber

(via http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/penees2repair.html)

Olympus Pen (1959) The first-generation Olympus Pen camera appeared in 1959. The design process began with the concept of creating a camera that could be sold for ¥6,000 yen. The Pen combined the superb photographic performance of the D-Zuiko lens with excellent portability, and it was also used by professional photographers as a secondary camera.

Olympus PenEE (1961) With the Olympus Pen EE, the emphasis was on efficiency. Features included fixed focus, a shutter speed of 1/60 sec., and automatic exposure adjustment. Anyone could take beautiful photographs simply by pushing the button. The camera was priced at ¥10,000 yen. Olympus eventually introduced eight models in the Olympus Pen EE series, which became a driving force for the popularity of the Pen cameras.

Olympus PenEES (1962) Launched in 1962, the Olympus Pen EES was the world’s first camera with a programmable EE shutter. The shutter speeds were 1/30 and 1/250 sec. The shutter speed changed automatically according to light level, thus increasing the appropriate exposure range. A three-zone focus system was used to adjust the focal point. The Olympus Pen EES heralded the start of the programmable EE camera boom.

Olympus PenD (1962) The Olympus Pen D was introduced in 1962 as the top model in the Olympus Pen range. Many professional features were packed into its compact body, including a high-performance F1.9 large-aperture lens, a high-speed 1/500 sec. shutter, and a built-in exposure meter that allowed direct reading of the LV.

Olympus PenEM (1965) The Olympus Pen EM went on sale in 1965 with three new features: an electronic shutter, automatic film advance, and automatic rewind. The electronic shutter allowed an exposure range from 30 sec. down to 1/500 sec. according to the brightness of the subject. Power for the shutter, film advance and rewind systems was provided by two built-in AA batteries. While the Olympus Pen EM had a major influence on the future of electronic technology and automation in cameras, there were manufacturing problems that could not be overcome with the technology then available. Sadly, production ceased after just one year.

Olympus PenF (1963) The Olympus Pen F was the world’s first and only half-frame system single-lens reflex camera, released in 1963. The camera featured a porro-prism finder and was the first to have a rotary titanium shutter. It could be used with a highly versatile range of 20 exchangeable lenses. The Olympus Pen F was a revolutionary camera packed with innovative features. The rotary shutter, which combined speed with durability, was reportedly perfected only after long and hard effort by Olympus engineers.

Olympus PenFT (1966) The Olympus PEN FT went on sale in 1966. Though identical to the Pen F in external appearance, it had a built-in TTL exposure meter. When the camera was pointed at a subject, the TTL number exposure control system displayed an aperture number in the view-finder according to the shutter speed setting. There were many other enhancements, including a single-action film advance system, and a built-in self-timer.