theseday. my new interesting stuff.

Polaroid 440 land camera w/ fujifilm FP-100C pack film

DIY Poster Board Ringflash – View Original Size

POLAROID miniportrait M402 MANUAL/USERGUIDE

STUDIO EXPRESS
POLAROID MODEL 402
MINIPORTRAIT M402 MANUAL

very bery old vintage scanef manual :)

STUDIO EXPRESS
POLAROID MINIPORTRAIT MODEL M402

**Leave comment about your question .  about M402 or else miniportrait.

I’ll answer to you .

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Well made site for Price searching about electric product. enjoy it !

http://www.pricefind.net/

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B800 into Beauty Dish high & middle
B800 Behind right shoulder
ABR800 on Camera
Vivitar Flash on paper

Lighting info

B800 into umbrella from side
B800 into beauty dish above
ABR800 Ringflash on Camera

ringflash test day bij TriMM

Super-cheap DIY Ringflash

(via http://www.flickr.com/groups/strobist/discuss/72157594277351576/)

jędrek says: After reading a couple of tutorials on the internet on how to build a ring flash, I came up with a technique involving plastic bowls, alu foil and glue. Since it was so much easier than any of the tutorials I’d seen, I decided to share with the internets. The tutorial: Examples: Posted at 7:44PM, 10 September 2006 KST ( permalink )

	Debbi in California says: This is a pretty neat idea. I’ve seen a few on the internet too. I just don’t care for the catchlight a ring light gives in the eyes. Makes the people look spooky (at least to me). I see top fashion photo use it too. It does give a nice even light on the face though. Debbi Posted 39 months ago. ( permalink )
	Airchinapilot says: Hmm sounds like it would work for macro or product photography. Posted 39 months ago. ( permalink )
	Super Hanz says: whaty kind of bowls did you use for these ? home depot ? Posted 39 months ago. ( permalink )
	luckyeddy says: Great idea, but doesn’t the ringflash soak up alot of juice from the strobe? Surely it is only effective at close range on wide apertures….I am trialling a mod on a 400w/s twin head Lumedyne kit, if it works I will post it here. Posted 39 months ago. ( permalink )
	MartijnKoevoets says: Very nice, as soons as I have some spare time I’ll fabricate one and post the results here! I already made one from cardboard a while ago, but that was utter crap so I never used it. :-) Posted 39 months ago. ( permalink )
	jędrek says: It does soak up a lot of juice, but you can stop down quite a bit at short range. The loss is mostly in range. I used… I dunno, the cheapest plastic bowls I could find. I was planning on working in metal, but plastic is so much easier and aluminum foil is much easier to wrap/spread then metal is to polish. Posted 39 months ago. ( permalink )
	MartijnKoevoets says: Maybe you could’ve got the larger of the 2 bowls with a lid (with a hole cut in for the inner bowl). That way the finished thing would look a little neater and diffuse the light a little. Posted 39 months ago. ( permalink )
	Tomper says: www.flickr.com/photos/52984099@N00/114640969/ (not my pic, just to give you an idea) Turband shaped pie-form. They have them in metal and plastic, and even with lids (white plastic. for diffuse?) I guess this would work. Originally posted 39 months ago. ( permalink ) Tomper edited this topic 39 months ago.
	jędrek says: The turband shape might defuse light better… hm. I’m pretty sure that taping some tissue paper over the exposed part would work as well. I’m going to try a dual light getup today with a big bowl and cheap canon strobes (117s, I think) and post results. Posted 39 months ago. ( permalink )
	jack satta (fnb) says: Trailing this link: www.jyoseph.com/extras/archives/2006/02/diy_ring_light.php Someone listed these: www.lyco.co.uk/category-contents/Circular-Tubes.htm?catID… Strange, I’d think they’re be a market for a simple stick-it–on-a-flash-á-la-Lumiquest-style fabric-y or metal doodad. Anyone want to make money? :) Posted 39 months ago. ( permalink )
	MartijnKoevoets says: I build one this afternoon, used a 110mm PVC-coupler, a dishwashing-tub and a small tupperware-cup. Cost me €10 including some good glue (already had the tinfoil ;-)). As soon as I get some nice pictures with it, I’ll post them in the group. Oh, a quick test revealed that it also works great as a beautydish. Here’s a version using a cake-form: panchoskywalker.skyblog.com/ Posted 39 months ago. ( permalink )
	Airchinapilot says: Martijn .. in your cakeform version you spray metallic paint on the inside. I understand why but do you think there is any instance when it might catch on fire? I realize this is for a flash and wonder if there is any electronic thing that might cause it to light up. Posted 39 months ago. ( permalink )
	MartijnKoevoets says: I didn’t make it like that, just found the link. Later on in that article the maker says that aluminium foil works much better than spraypaint. Posted 39 months ago. ( permalink )
	davidcampbellphoto says: That’s cool that you built this. How much are Vivitar ringlights going for these days? I have had one for years, but rarely use it. I would think you could find one on Ebay fairly cheap. Posted 39 months ago. ( permalink )
	psychobit says: I’ve made it, thanks. Posted 38 months ago. ( permalink )
	Captoe says: Both of these seem to throw more light from below, resulting in a shadow above the subject. I wonder how that could be avoided? Posted 38 months ago. ( permalink )
	Mawz says: Captoe: Rotate the unit 180 degrees aroud the lens. Or add a second speedlight at the top. Posted 38 months ago. ( permalink )
	grandslam05 says: Check this out!! tbreedlove.googlepages.com/ABR800info.pdf $399 for a self contained AB Ringflash…………… Posted 38 months ago. ( permalink )
	jack satta (fnb) says: @grandslam05– The AB monolight units are great—I’ve used them before; however, they are AC power only, making them pretty much bound to the studio, unless you get a powerpack which hardly makes them portable. Someone really needs to come up with some quick fabric/bracket/camera arm assembly for <$100. Originally posted 38 months ago. ( permalink ) jack satta (fnb) edited this topic 38 months ago.
	luckyeddy says: I solved the problem by placing a small peice of diffusion material on the lower portion of the ringflash to cover the area exposing the strobe. This reduced the output in that area, and pushed more light around the rest if the ringflash. It took a little experimentation but I got it in the end. Posted 38 months ago. ( permalink )
	luckyeddy says: Whats the idea with the handgrip on the AB 800 ringflash? its in totally the wrong place, surely it would be uncomfortable to hold the camera like this for any length of time. I would prefer a small pad under the bracket that would allow me to hold the camera in a more conventional manner, palm up with my fingers able to control the lens. Posted 38 months ago. ( permalink )
	strobist says: Jedrek- Thanks for the great tutorial. I featured it on Strobist this morning. Tell your models they will be seen by about 20,000 people over the weekend! -DH Posted 38 months ago. ( permalink )
	jędrek says: WOW! Thanks so much! Now, I’m finally going to go back to working on the large, dual-speedlight version I have half done in my kitchen… Posted 38 months ago. ( permalink )
	strobist says: No, thank YOU. Posted 38 months ago. ( permalink )
	CameraJuice says: Seems to be good gear if you want to do passport pix / mugshots… Any links to better portraits? Other than headshots? Posted 38 months ago. ( permalink )
	jack satta (fnb) says: @beachcombersrus– while I agree that time is money, it’s cool that a lot of the pro (and consequently, pro-priced) items can be had for pennies on the dollar with a little effort, for the every-person. Those are softboxes you point out, and have a different effect than the ring light, especially with regards to portraits; it provides a very uniquely soft, flat light that’s very even, and adds interesting eye catchlights. The ring light is very effective when balanced with another side light or two for a rim effect as well. Holy LED ring lights! Originally posted 38 months ago. ( permalink ) jack satta (fnb) edited this topic 38 months ago.
	codeburner says: The micro apollo isn’t a ring flash so I don’t see your point. Ring flash in my book goes especially with macro photography. I must admit I could see hauling this ring flash setup around chasing butterflies with my macro lens. Posted 38 months ago. ( permalink )
	codeburner says: I mean could not see. Posted 38 months ago. ( permalink )
	carlos.benjamin says: Carzee – You mean like these? Posted 38 months ago. ( permalink )
	strobist says: Congrats to Jedrek, who hit the Big Time this morning: www.makezine.com/blog/archive/2006/10/supercheap_diy_ring… Posted 38 months ago. ( permalink )
	Adopt a pet, save a Life AKA..definetlyoverdone says: anyone try this with macro shots yet? Id be interested to see a few. I use my 420EX for macro and it works great but i always wanted a ring flash dont ya know! lol Posted 38 months ago. ( permalink )
	CharlieBrown8989 says: Thanks for sharing…. Posted 38 months ago. ( permalink )
	jędrek says: FINALLY got off my butt and made the dual flash model (literally 7 months after cutting the first hole in the bowl) for a shoot today. Posted 31 months ago. ( permalink )
	Michael Sarver says: Hey Jedrek, let us know how it works! Posted 31 months ago. ( permalink )
	Benji2008 says: I just made one too! Posted 31 months ago. ( permalink )
	cMacSutt says: i plan to make the tupperware one Posted 24 months ago. ( permalink )
	JxM – JonMack.co.uk says: Most of us plan to not bump topics which havn’t been replied to in over 8 months. Posted 24 months ago. ( permalink )
	Sekoudog [deleted] says: What? I’m confused… Posted 19 months ago. ( permalink )

Made a DIY ringflash adaptor for my Sigma DG550 / Canon 400D. Took a few test photos, need to take some “proper” photos with it ASAP.

Article no. 32.462.XX

Feu spécial muni d’un tube flash circulaire 3200 J, UV-couché (5500 K) et des halogènes modélisation W 200 lumière solide composé de 10 lampes halogène très basse tension de 20 W avec réflecteur amovible avec une protection UV-verre. Le C Ringflash est adapté pour des séries flash avec puissance de sortie de grande capacité ainsi que pour les clignotants avec petite puissance de sortie, en raison du tube à quartz de haute puissance du flash et la haute puissance de refroidissement du système. Le titulaire de la lampe spéciale permet de pivoter la lampe et est équipé d’un détenteur de l’appareil photo et un adaptateur stand (stand pour la caméra). Dus au titulaire de caméra réglable, le C Ringflash convient à presque tous les appareils photo.

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picture via Profoto-fr.com

A ring flash, invented by Lester A. Dine, in 1952 originally for use in dental photography^{[citation needed]}, is a circular photographic flash that fits around the lens, especially for use in macro (or close-up) photography. Its most important characteristic is providing even illumination with few shadows visible in the photograph, as the origin of the light is very close to (and surrounds) the optical axis of the lens. When the subject is very close to the camera, as is the case in macro photography, the distance of the flash from the optical axis becomes significant. For objects close to the camera, the size of the ring flash is significant and so the light encounters the subject from many angles in the same way that it does with a conventional flash with soft box. This has the effect of further softening any shadows.

Ring flashes are also very popular in portrait and fashion photography. In addition to softening shadows, which can be unflattering to models and bring out unsightly wrinkles, the unique way that a ring flash renders light gives the model a shadowy halo which is a common feature of fashion photography.

Macro ring flash usually consists of two parts: a shoe-mount unit mounted on a hot shoe, and a circular flash unit mounted on the front of a lens. Power is supplied by batteries in the shoe-mount unit, and a cord relays the power and control signals to the circular flash unit. For larger ring flash units like those used for fashion photography, power is usually delivered by a power pack which can be battery or AC powered. Some ring flashes however, like ones made by Alien Bees, are constructed like mono lights where the light and power are contained in one unit. Within the circular flash unit, there can be one or more flash tubes, each of which can be turned on or off individually. Some ring flashes have focusing lamps for helping low-light focusing. Ring flash diffusers are also available, which have no light source of their own, but instead mount in front of a conventional flash unit and transmit the light to a ring-shaped diffuser at the front of the lens.

Learn how He made this bracket:

Easy To Make Five Dollar Orbis Ring Flash Bracket

www.stuffishootwith.com/2009/07/easy-to-make-five-dollar-…

(*via http://www.stuffishootwith.com/2009/07/easy-to-make-five-dollar-orbis-ring.html)

But other’s opinion is :

danielbartel says:

The flash and Orbis Ring Flash are heavier than the bracket. The bracket is hollow tubing and is extremely light. The camera and lens are much heavier than everything else. I’m used to shooting with a D300 with MD-D10 grip, a 70-200 f/2.8, and SB-800 flash. This whole setup is lighter.

A behind the scene picture @ Ted Adnan Studio Flash Lighting Workshop June 2007, originally uploaded by ted adnan. from flickr

KODAK WRATTEN Gelatin Filters

This chart lists the standard numerical designations of available KODAK WRATTEN Gelatin Filters.

Filter Color                    Description/Use
Yellows
2A                           Pale yellow. Absorbs ultraviolet radiation.
2B                           Pale yellow. Absorbs ultraviolet radiation, slightly less than No. 2A.
2E                           Pale yellow. Absorbs more ultraviolet radiation than No. 2A.
3                              Light yellow. Absorbs excessive sky blue.
8                              Yellow. Transmits less blue than No. 3.
9                              Deep yellow. More dramatic effect than No. 8.
11                            Yellowish-green. Corrects panchromatic film rendition to match tungsten impression of scene.
12                            Deep yellow. Minus blue filter (see No. 32 for minus-green and No. 44A for minus-red).
15                            Deep yellow. Darkens sky in landscape photography.
Oranges, Reds and Magentas
16                              Yellow-orange. Greater over-correction of sky than No. 15.
21                              Orange. Contrast filter for blue and blue-green absorption.
22                              Deep orange. Contrast filter, greater effect than No. 21.
24                              Red.
25                              Red tricolor. Color separation work, tricolor printing, and infrared photography.
26                              Red.
29                              Red. Color separation with Nos. 47 and 61 and tricolor printing work.
32                              Magenta. Minus-green (No. 12 is minus-blue, No. 44A is minus-red).
Violets, Blues and Greens
34A                           Violet. For minus-green and plus-blue separation.
38A                           Blue. Absorbs red, some UV and green light.
44                              Light blue-green. Minus-red filter with much UV absorption.
44A                           Light blue-green. Minus-red (No. 12 is minus-blue, and No. 32 is minus-green)
47                              Blue tricolor. Color separation work with Nos. 29 and 61.
47A                           Light blue. Exciting fluorescein dyes in medical applications.
47B                           Deep blue tricolor. Color separation and tricolor work.
58                              Green tricolor. Color separation and tricolor printing.
61                              Deep green tricolor. Tricolor work with Nos. 29 and 47.
Color Conversion or Conversion Filters
Designed to provide significant changes in color temperature of various light sources.
80A, 80B, 80C, 80D—Blue series of conversion filters for use with color films.
5, 85N3, 85N6, 85N9, 85B, 85C – Amber series of conversion filters for use with color films.
Light Balancing
81, 81A, 81B, 81C, 81D, 81EF – Yellowish series of light-balancing filters.
82, 82A, 82B, 82C – Bluish series of light-balancing filters.
KODAK Miscellaneous
87, 87C                     Visibly opaque infrared filters.
89B                            Visibly opaque. Infrared photography, especially aerial.
90                               Dark grayish amber.
92 Red.                    Color densitometry.
96                               Neutral Density Filter No. 96.
98 Blue.                    Equivalent to No. 47B plus No. 2B filter.
99 Green.                 Equivalent to No. 61 plus No. 16 filter.
102 Yellow-green. Converts barrier-layer photocell response to eye luminosity response.
106 Amber.              Converts an S-4 type photocell response to the eye-luminosity response.
Note:  For more information about filters, see Publication B-3, KODAK Photographic Filters Handbook,
available through your photographic dealer.