All Nikon Cameras and Lenses on the Market (~2009)

This post have to long table. so please click  [Readmore] below.

Read more

ALL Canon Cameras and Lenses on the Market (~2009)

This post have to long table. so please click  [Readmore] below.

Read more

The Olympus Pen EES-2 is one of the easiest cameras I’ve ever tinkered on. It’s a repairman’s dream (unlike the Pen FT, which is a nightmare in comparison).

The Pen EES-2 has two shutter speeds: 1/30 and 1/200. The camera automatically selects which speed to use. Although in flash mode only 1/30 is used. Basically, without flash, it is a point and shoot camera that has zone focusing. The metering is done via lock-needle in the AUTO position only. There is a red flag that pops up in the viewfinder if light conditions are beyond the scope of the metering. There is no manual exposure position unless you get tricky and use the flash settings and a handheld meter.

It’s a very compact yet terrific little camera.

I have two EES-2’s and they both had identical problems: the aperture stuck shut. Btw, this was both’s only problem! Other than the aperture blades sticking together they seem very reliable. And even this problem is minor, being a friction problem caused because of dust, oils, condensation and…time. A little heavier spring tension from the factory might have helped.

If you’ve read the Demi article on stuck shutters you’ll understand exactly what we will be doing here. Only we’ll be doing it to the aperture. In the Demi article we only did a halfway job, we didn’t fully disassemble the shutter mechanism. And there is a good reason! The Demi shutter is very hard to get at and not that easy to assemble/disassemble. However, on the EES-2 it is so easy to take apart we’ll do a complete job.

Let’s begin…

Around the front element you’ll see a chrome ring. This ring is driven by the focusing ring on the outer periphery of the lens. We must use care not to lose the focus adjustment. This chrome ring is setscrewed to the front element and turns the front element during focusing. There are 3 setscrews around the perimeter and they take a very small slot screwdriver.

Before removing this chrome ring, turn the focus to the infinity position. i.e. the mountain icon. Loosen the setscrews about a turn and a half each. Do not fully unscrew the setscrews, they’ll be hard to get back in. Now lift the chrome ring straight up being careful not to turn the front element. Measure from the outer edge of the element to the metal base and record this distance. Alternately you can mark the position, say at twelve o’clock, then screw the element in and recording the amount of turns/degrees it moves until bottoming out. I think measuring is easier and maybe more accurate.

That is the hardest thing we’ll have to do!

Now with your fingers unscrew the front element. Then remove the 3 screws holding the selenium cell to the front of the lens. Leave the 2 screws that hold the cell pieces together. To make life a little easier, remove the bottom cover so the meter wires can be stretched out longer and the lens lain flat.

Remove the 3 screws holding the brass middle element/aperture housing to the shutter housing. Leave the screw holding the auto detent lever in place. Once removed 3 brass screws can be seen that retain the aperture blades. Before removing these screws note the position of the aperture blades in the aperture bracket and loosen the screw that retains the blade pivot. Remove the 3 screws and pull the aperture out of the slot in the side of the housing. Do not lose the 3 brass washers beneath the aperture plate, they space the plate from the housing allowing clearance for the blades.

After the pivot screw is loosened sufficiently, the blades can be spread (do not remove the blades from their pivot) on a clean, flat surface and swabbed with Ronsonol, dried and rubbed with graphite if necessary. Neither of my EES-2’s needed the graphite treatment. Be VERY, VERY careful not to bend the blades. Also do not touch with fingers.

After cleaning, reassemble the aperture components. The brass washers will be frustrating to position but, trust me, it’s possible. Adjust the blades, using the pivot screw as a lock, so when activating the cam pin the blades open equally.

Reassemble everything in reverse order paying close attention to two things: all dust is blown from glass areas. And the first element is positioned the proper distance out to maintain correct focus. Remember to have focus ring set to the mountain icon.

Olympus Pen EES-2 Aperture Repair
by Henry Taber

(via http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/penees2repair.html)

OLYMPUS HALF FRAME CAMERAS

The E-series took the original Pen one step further with the addition of a meter and automatic exposure.  Many of these cameras had two shutter speeds.  The higher speed was used with the built-in meter — it was activated when the film speed was dialed in.  Then the meter set the aperture automatically.  The slower speed was designed for flash pictures — it was activated when the aperture was set manually.  This made the cameras much more versatile, since the flash option allowed the cameras to be used as a manual-exposure camera.

---

• Olympus Pen EE

  (1961-1966)  The EE is one of the most confusing models.  Not only because there was also an  EE-2 and an EE-3 but because there were different models of the original EE.  The basic idea for this camera was to take the Pen and make a more automatic camera.  There were two approaches to this.  First, a meter was added to allow for automatic exposure.  Just dial in the film speed and the selenium meter (surrounding the lens) set the correct aperture.  The shutter speed was fixed at 1/60.  For flash use, the opposite side of the film speed dial allowed you to over-ride the meter and manually select the f-stop — still at 1/60.  The other “auto” feature was “automatic” focusing.  This was achieved with a fixed-focus — 28mm — lens.  Film speeds could be set from 10 – 200.  Apertures from f3.5 – 22. It came with a PC socket, but the flash shoe was not built-in. Later, a second model came out with two shutter speeds — 1/30 and 1/250.  All other features were the same.  The big difference was that selecting a film speed sets the shutter speed at 1/250, while selected an f-stop (for flash) sets the shutter speed at 1/30.  This is a configuration that was used in several other Pens.  Cosmetically it is difficult to tell the two models apart.  The model I has a standard “leather-looking” leatherette on the body.  The model II covering is a “basket-weave”-type, used on many other Pen cameras.  Since the new meter surrounded the lens, a new dual-filter approach was used.  The camera could use 22.5 filters over the lens or 43.5mm filters over the lens and meter — nice touch.

• Olympus Pen EES

  (1962-1966) The Pen series did a lot of flip-flopping on lenses.  The EES was the Pen EE with a focusing lens.  It had a 30mm (f2.8 – 22) focusing lens.with three focus-indents for near, far, and intermediate distances.  Shutter of 1/40 or 1/200 with f-stop selected by the selenium meter (at 1/200).  F-stop can be set manually with the shutter speed at 1/40.   No flash shoe, but PC connector.  ”S” on the front of the camera, but just says EE on the top.  As with the earlier models, the slow shutter speed setting occurs when the film speed/aperture dial is set to an aperture setting.  When the same dial is set to a film speed setting, the shutter is set to 1/200 and the f-stop is set by the meter.  So, the camera can be used in low-light situations by setting the dial to the aperture settings — with or without a flash.  Film speeds from 10 – 200.  Close focusing to 3 feet.  The camera could use 22.5 filters over the lens or 43.5mm filters over the lens and meter — nice touch.

• Olympus Pen EM

  (1965 – 1966)  This is the motorized Pen.  It had a six element, 35mm, manually-focusing (f2.0 – 16.0) lens.  Close-focusing was to 36 inches.  It had a newly styled body that was not quite as small as the original Pen body.  In part this was because it had a built in motor drive using two AA batteries.  This was the first Japanese camera to have an electric motor film advance and rewind.  This version also had a CDS cell instead of the standard Pen EE selenium meter.  Film speed could be set from ISO 10 – 400.  The desired aperture was chosen and the meter automatically selected the correct shutter speed (1/30 – 1/500).  The original model did not have a flash shoe, but a later version apparently did.

• Olympus Pen Rapid EED

• Olympus Pen Rapid EES

  (1965-1966)  It’s the Pen EES, but designed for Agfa Rapid cassettes.

• Olympus Pen EE-EL

  (1966-1968) Same as Pen EE, but with Olympus “easy-load” film system.

• Olympus Pen EES-EL

  (1966-1968) Same as Pen EES, but with Olympus “easy-load” film system.

• Olympus Pen EED

  (1967-1972)  Same as the first EED, but designed for regular 35mm cassettes.

• Olympus Pen EE-2

  (1968-1977)  It looked the same as the original EE, but there were a couple of changes.  First, the speeds were changed.  The shutter now operated at either 1/40 or 1/200.  For normal use (the film speed is selected), the selenium meter sets the f-stop and the shutter speed is fixed at 1/200.  The slow shutter speed setting occurs when the film speed/aperture dial is set to an aperture setting.  The camera can be used in low-light situations by setting the dial to the aperture settings — with or without a flash.  In addition, the film speed range was changed to 25 – 400 and a hot shoe was built-in.  Last, but not least, only 43.5mm filters can be used.  Models were available in black leatherette, grey leatherette, and a gold commemorative model was apparently made.

• Olympus Pen EES-2

  (1968-1871) Same as Pen EES, but hot shoe added.  ISO speeds from 25 – 400.  Four settings on the focusing ring.  Only accepts 43.5mm filters.  Available in black or grey leatherette.

• Olympus Pen EE-3

  (1973-1986)  Identical in all features to the EE-2, except in minor details.  For example, the camera is stamped EE-3.  Only available in black leatherette.  The last Pen to roll of the line was a Pen EE-3.

• Olympus Pen EF

  (1981-1983)  Pehaps the last Japanese camera to use a selenium meter, it had a 28mm (f3.5) fixed-focus lens surrounded by the selenium meter.  Programmed automatic exposure control.  Shutter speeds of 1/30-1/250.  The meter selected the correct aperture and f-stop from f3.5 (at 1/30) to f22 (at 1/250).  This model had a built in flash.  Film speeds of 25 – 400. Filter thread of 43.5mm.

State of the DSLR market: Nikon vs. Canon vs. Sony/Minolta vs. Olympus vs. Panasonic/Leica vs. Pentax vs. Samsung vs. Sigma vs. Fujifilm digital SLR cameras, as of January 2009

New image of almost 40 cameras

(State of the DSLR market – January 2009 (new)

Old image of almost 25 cameras

(State of the DSLR market – June 2008 (old))

this image includes includes all the current digital SLR cameras (almost 40) from Nikon, Canon, Sony, Olympus, Pentax, Panasonic, Leica, Samsung, Sigma, and Fujifilm:

(via http://www.flickr.com/photos/penmachine/3177722200/)

(via http://www.penmachine.com/2009/01/too-many-dslrs)

Here’s a great update of this collage from Billy Wilson, with a helpful grid, new Micro Four Thirds cameras, and medium-format SLRs too.

“”I like the black one with the buttons and stuff.”" from Axl Van Goks

As of late 2008. See the large version here:

www.flickr.com/photos/jasonphillipsdesign/3054031695/size…

lancephoto says: I just got a miniportrait 454 with a 4×5 back and I have two questions. 1) There doesn’t seem to be any control to make 4 separate pictures at different times. Am I just supposed to cover the lenses except the one I want to be exposed or is there a better way? 2) is there a way to buy a different back and use 100 type film with this that will not cut off the image? Anyone else out there have this camera and can give me some pointers? Thanks for considering my quandries… - Lance Posted at 11:35PM, 19 December 2008 KST ( permalink )

	Bouncing Light says: 1. I cover them (I have a 402) 2. Don’t know the answer to this one, I have 2 backs and both of them take type 100 film Posted 10 months ago. ( permalink )
	bambam4236 says: Lance i think with this model you used to get caps to cover the lens’s. heres a link that might lead to a manual thelangolier.com/2008/03/miniportrait-m454m402.html Posted 10 months ago. ( permalink )
	bambam4236 says: Lance i just saw one on ebay with 3 caps on the lens’s so that must be the only way to do it. I have a 484, its kind of cool as it has a knob in the middle of the four lens’s that you just turn to take individual shots ;) Posted 10 months ago. ( permalink )

Whoa, Ricoh cameras…

Three GR Digitals, GR1, GX8, and 500G Wide!
Just couldn’t believe my eyes… the collection of Terry’s Ricoh cameras are quite impressive!

Uploaded by hirosan on 8 Sep 06, 3.13AM KST.

Ricoh GXR

erability

Flexible accommodation of subject and shooting style. Settings read when camera unit attached The GXR remembers shooting settings in both the body and the camera unit. It is possible to select in advance which settings are to be used when the camera unit is changed. Select the body settings if you want to shoot and process images in the same way regardless of the camera unit. Select the camera unit settings if you want to change settings for image creation in a style specific to the camera unit. For example, for the camera unit with a zoom lens, settings for sharp black and white street scenes could be specified, while settings for natural color portraits are specified for the camera unit with a fixed-focal-length lens. In this way, camera units can be used for different purposes without making detailed setting changes. *Some of the body settings cannot be carried over. To Top

Speedy function settings via DIRECT screen The DIRECT button is located on the back of the GXR. When in shooting mode, pressing the DIRECT button displays the current shooting settings. Since the settings are transparently displayed over the image, the DIRECT screen is convenient for simultaneously checking both the image and the settings. In addition, you can smoothly prepare to shoot by selecting settings with the directional pad and then making changes. Background image density (three levels) can be changed by pressing the DISP. button while the DIRECT screen is displayed. When the optional external viewfinder is attached, it is possible to show the image in the viewfinder while the shooting settings are shown on the picture display. *Shooting mode, macro, self-timer, and flash settings cannot be changed on the DIRECT screen. The mode dial or the individual buttons should be used for changes. To Top Easy and intuitive operation. 8-Directional pad handles diagonal movement The directional pad handles diagonal movement in addition to the standard up-down and right-left. This enables smoother and easier operations for AE/AF target selection, image selection on the micro-thumbnail display, etc. To Top Enhanced function setting efficiency. Three My Settings and the My Settings Box A wide range of settings can be registered in advance and instantaneously accessed by just turning the mode dial. The GXR provides three My Settings to enhance the photographer’s ability to respond instantly to scenes and creative inspirations. In addition, up to six special purpose and infrequently used My Settings can be saved in a My Settings Box and quickly assigned to the mode dial as necessary. To Top A smart choice for frequently used functions. The customizable ADJ. lever Frequently used functions can be assigned to the ADJ. lever. This is convenient for creating a shortcut to menu functions and for making direct setting changes. Press at the center to call up the registered functions and then press to the left or right to select a function. Use the + or – button to quickly complete the setting. •Functions that can be assigned to the ADJ. lever Exposure compensation, white balance, white balance compensation, ISO, picture quality, focus, image settings, metering, continuous mode, auto bracketing, flash compensation, manual flash amount *In scene mode, the ADJ. lever function is fixed at the default setting. To Top One push for easy function changes. Two Fn buttons There are two Fn buttons which can be used to switch functions with one push. Avoid missing shutter chances by responding instantly to scenes and creative inspirations. In addition, when the power is turned on, when the shooting/playback mode is changed, and when the mode dial setting is changed, it is possible to confirm which functions are assigned to which Fn button. This is helpful for preventing operation errors. •Functions that can be assigned to the Fn buttons AF/MF, AF/snap, AE lock, JPEG>RAW, color>B&W, color>TE, exposure compensation, white balance, white balance compensation, ISO, picture quality, focus, image settings, metering, continuous mode, auto bracketing, macro target, flash compensation, manual flash amount To Top High-definition 920,000-dot picture display enables precise focus checks A 3.0-inch, 920,000-dot high-definition LCD panel is used for the picture display. A wide color reproduction range with 100% sRGB coverage gives a high-reality image for both shooting and playback. The large screen size and high resolution enable careful checking of focus when images are magnified and reviewed in playback. Superior visibility and durability are achieved with a fluorine coat to prevent soiling, a hard coat to prevent scratches, and an anti-reflection coat. * Simulated image To Top Up to 81 images. The micro-thumbnail display can also display by date Utilizing the high-resolution picture display, a micro-thumbnail display of up to 81 images is possible. This makes it easy to find a particular image from among the many taken. Pushing the thumbnail display button again causes the micro-thumbnail images to be displayed by date. This expands playback enjoyment by enabling you to review the events of a specific day or search for images based on schedule dates. (via http://www.ricoh.com/r_dc/gxr/features3.html)

TTL vs ETTL compare| Canon 580EXii / 430 EXii Speedlite
http://www.canonspeedlitedvd.com

- This is a short video which explains the concepts of TTL and ETTL flash metering systems. Flash photography can be extremely tricky, so I made this video in hopes it would help you learn what TTL and ETTL are and how they are different. Its just one of many lessons from my new DVD: Canon 580 EXII \ 430EXII Speedlite Crash Course. Over 3.5 hours of awesome lessons.

It can be ordered from the following link: http://www.michaelthemaven.com

This is a quick introduction to the external buttons of the Canon Rebel T1i and is also one chapter from my new Crash Course Training DVD. The full DVD has nearly 4 hours of awesome lessons that will get you shooting like a pro in no time! Enjoy!

For more details see:http://www.michaelthementor.com/store…

(via http://www.youtube.com/user/MichaelTheMentor)

POLAROID miniportrait M402 MANUAL/USERGUIDE

Polaroid miniportrait [id/passport] camera userguide(manual) ·

M202, M203/M403 M402, M205, M206

User Guide

User Guide	Size
Digital Miniportrait	1.05 MB
Digital Miniportrait (Multi-Language)	1.48 MB
ID-4	1.45 MB
ID-100/ID-100 Pro	448 KB
ID-100/ID-100 Pro (Multi-Language)	8.0 MB
ID-104 Econo/Deluxe (Multi-Language)	876 KB
MiniPortrait 203/403 Quickstart	204 KB
MiniPortrait 203/403	782 KB
MiniPortrait 205 QuickStart	64 KB
MiniPortrait 205	236 KB
MiniPortrait 206 QuickStart	56 KB
MiniPortrait 206	224 KB
MiniPortrait 209	639 KB
MiniPortrait 402b	1.42 MB
SP 350	439 KB
SPd 360	596 KB

*(via Polaroid)

http://www.polaroid.com/service/userguides/photographic/idpassport_ug.html