The Olympus Pen EES-2 is one of the easiest cameras I’ve ever tinkered on. It’s a repairman’s dream (unlike the Pen FT, which is a nightmare in comparison).
The Pen EES-2 has two shutter speeds: 1/30 and 1/200. The camera automatically selects which speed to use. Although in flash mode only 1/30 is used. Basically, without flash, it is a point and shoot camera that has zone focusing. The metering is done via lock-needle in the AUTO position only. There is a red flag that pops up in the viewfinder if light conditions are beyond the scope of the metering. There is no manual exposure position unless you get tricky and use the flash settings and a handheld meter.
It’s a very compact yet terrific little camera.
I have two EES-2’s and they both had identical problems: the aperture stuck shut. Btw, this was both’s only problem! Other than the aperture blades sticking together they seem very reliable. And even this problem is minor, being a friction problem caused because of dust, oils, condensation and…time. A little heavier spring tension from the factory might have helped.
If you’ve read the Demi article on stuck shutters you’ll understand exactly what we will be doing here. Only we’ll be doing it to the aperture. In the Demi article we only did a halfway job, we didn’t fully disassemble the shutter mechanism. And there is a good reason! The Demi shutter is very hard to get at and not that easy to assemble/disassemble. However, on the EES-2 it is so easy to take apart we’ll do a complete job.
Let’s begin…

Around the front element you’ll see a chrome ring. This ring is driven by the focusing ring on the outer periphery of the lens. We must use care not to lose the focus adjustment. This chrome ring is setscrewed to the front element and turns the front element during focusing. There are 3 setscrews around the perimeter and they take a very small slot screwdriver.
Before removing this chrome ring, turn the focus to the infinity position. i.e. the mountain icon. Loosen the setscrews about a turn and a half each. Do not fully unscrew the setscrews, they’ll be hard to get back in. Now lift the chrome ring straight up being careful not to turn the front element. Measure from the outer edge of the element to the metal base and record this distance. Alternately you can mark the position, say at twelve o’clock, then screw the element in and recording the amount of turns/degrees it moves until bottoming out. I think measuring is easier and maybe more accurate.
That is the hardest thing we’ll have to do!

Now with your fingers unscrew the front element. Then remove the 3 screws holding the selenium cell to the front of the lens. Leave the 2 screws that hold the cell pieces together. To make life a little easier, remove the bottom cover so the meter wires can be stretched out longer and the lens lain flat.
Remove the 3 screws holding the brass middle element/aperture housing to the shutter housing. Leave the screw holding the auto detent lever in place. Once removed 3 brass screws can be seen that retain the aperture blades. Before removing these screws note the position of the aperture blades in the aperture bracket and loosen the screw that retains the blade pivot. Remove the 3 screws and pull the aperture out of the slot in the side of the housing. Do not lose the 3 brass washers beneath the aperture plate, they space the plate from the housing allowing clearance for the blades.
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After the pivot screw is loosened sufficiently, the blades can be spread (do not remove the blades from their pivot) on a clean, flat surface and swabbed with Ronsonol, dried and rubbed with graphite if necessary. Neither of my EES-2’s needed the graphite treatment. Be VERY, VERY careful not to bend the blades. Also do not touch with fingers.
After cleaning, reassemble the aperture components. The brass washers will be frustrating to position but, trust me, it’s possible. Adjust the blades, using the pivot screw as a lock, so when activating the cam pin the blades open equally.
Reassemble everything in reverse order paying close attention to two things: all dust is blown from glass areas. And the first element is positioned the proper distance out to maintain correct focus. Remember to have focus ring set to the mountain icon.
Olympus Pen EES-2 Aperture Repair
by Henry Taber
(via http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/penees2repair.html)

olympus pen-ee3, pen-em, ees, eem, es
OLYMPUS HALF FRAME CAMERAS
The E-series took the original Pen one step further with the addition of a meter and automatic exposure. Many of these cameras had two shutter speeds. The higher speed was used with the built-in meter — it was activated when the film speed was dialed in. Then the meter set the aperture automatically. The slower speed was designed for flash pictures — it was activated when the aperture was set manually. This made the cameras much more versatile, since the flash option allowed the cameras to be used as a manual-exposure camera.
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Olympus Pen EE
(1961-1966) The EE is one of the most confusing models. Not only because there was also an EE-2 and an EE-3 but because there were different models of the original EE. The basic idea for this camera was to take the Pen and make a more automatic camera. There were two approaches to this. First, a meter was added to allow for automatic exposure. Just dial in the film speed and the selenium meter (surrounding the lens) set the correct aperture. The shutter speed was fixed at 1/60. For flash use, the opposite side of the film speed dial allowed you to over-ride the meter and manually select the f-stop — still at 1/60. The other “auto” feature was “automatic” focusing. This was achieved with a fixed-focus — 28mm — lens. Film speeds could be set from 10 – 200. Apertures from f3.5 – 22. It came with a PC socket, but the flash shoe was not built-in. Later, a second model came out with two shutter speeds — 1/30 and 1/250. All other features were the same. The big difference was that selecting a film speed sets the shutter speed at 1/250, while selected an f-stop (for flash) sets the shutter speed at 1/30. This is a configuration that was used in several other Pens. Cosmetically it is difficult to tell the two models apart. The model I has a standard “leather-looking” leatherette on the body. The model II covering is a “basket-weave”-type, used on many other Pen cameras. Since the new meter surrounded the lens, a new dual-filter approach was used. The camera could use 22.5 filters over the lens or 43.5mm filters over the lens and meter — nice touch.
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Olympus Pen EES
(1962-1966) The Pen series did a lot of flip-flopping on lenses. The EES was the Pen EE with a focusing lens. It had a 30mm (f2.8 – 22) focusing lens.with three focus-indents for near, far, and intermediate distances. Shutter of 1/40 or 1/200 with f-stop selected by the selenium meter (at 1/200). F-stop can be set manually with the shutter speed at 1/40. No flash shoe, but PC connector. ”S” on the front of the camera, but just says EE on the top. As with the earlier models, the slow shutter speed setting occurs when the film speed/aperture dial is set to an aperture setting. When the same dial is set to a film speed setting, the shutter is set to 1/200 and the f-stop is set by the meter. So, the camera can be used in low-light situations by setting the dial to the aperture settings — with or without a flash. Film speeds from 10 – 200. Close focusing to 3 feet. The camera could use 22.5 filters over the lens or 43.5mm filters over the lens and meter — nice touch.
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Olympus Pen EM
(1965 – 1966) This is the motorized Pen. It had a six element, 35mm, manually-focusing (f2.0 – 16.0) lens. Close-focusing was to 36 inches. It had a newly styled body that was not quite as small as the original Pen body. In part this was because it had a built in motor drive using two AA batteries. This was the first Japanese camera to have an electric motor film advance and rewind. This version also had a CDS cell instead of the standard Pen EE selenium meter. Film speed could be set from ISO 10 – 400. The desired aperture was chosen and the meter automatically selected the correct shutter speed (1/30 – 1/500). The original model did not have a flash shoe, but a later version apparently did.
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Olympus Pen Rapid EED
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Olympus Pen Rapid EES
(1965-1966) It’s the Pen EES, but designed for Agfa Rapid cassettes.
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Olympus Pen EE-EL
(1966-1968) Same as Pen EE, but with Olympus “easy-load” film system.
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Olympus Pen EES-EL
(1966-1968) Same as Pen EES, but with Olympus “easy-load” film system.
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Olympus Pen EED
(1967-1972) Same as the first EED, but designed for regular 35mm cassettes.
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Olympus Pen EE-2
(1968-1977) It looked the same as the original EE, but there were a couple of changes. First, the speeds were changed. The shutter now operated at either 1/40 or 1/200. For normal use (the film speed is selected), the selenium meter sets the f-stop and the shutter speed is fixed at 1/200. The slow shutter speed setting occurs when the film speed/aperture dial is set to an aperture setting. The camera can be used in low-light situations by setting the dial to the aperture settings — with or without a flash. In addition, the film speed range was changed to 25 – 400 and a hot shoe was built-in. Last, but not least, only 43.5mm filters can be used. Models were available in black leatherette, grey leatherette, and a gold commemorative model was apparently made.
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Olympus Pen EES-2
(1968-1871) Same as Pen EES, but hot shoe added. ISO speeds from 25 – 400. Four settings on the focusing ring. Only accepts 43.5mm filters. Available in black or grey leatherette.
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Olympus Pen EE-3
(1973-1986) Identical in all features to the EE-2, except in minor details. For example, the camera is stamped EE-3. Only available in black leatherette. The last Pen to roll of the line was a Pen EE-3.
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Olympus Pen EF
(1981-1983) Pehaps the last Japanese camera to use a selenium meter, it had a 28mm (f3.5) fixed-focus lens surrounded by the selenium meter. Programmed automatic exposure control. Shutter speeds of 1/30-1/250. The meter selected the correct aperture and f-stop from f3.5 (at 1/30) to f22 (at 1/250). This model had a built in flash. Film speeds of 25 – 400. Filter thread of 43.5mm.
*click to 800px. by olympus pen ee-3 / IN CHINA . 2007.
보시는것과 같이 36cut 필름에 72cut의 상이 촬영되어있습니다. 아버지도 펜으로 많이 찍고 인화하셨었겠지만 밀착을 하지 않고 바로 3×5 size 프린트를 해오셨기때문에, 많이 찍힌다는 것은 알고 계셨지만 하프사이즈(half size)에 대한 개념은 모르셨던 것 같습니다. 따라서 pen으로 찍을때는 미리 예상하여 두컷에 어느정도 연관성을 부여하여 찍고 프린트하는 재미가 있는데요. 예를 들면 ….

* Olympus PEN EE-3 / Kodak Portra 160VC / 서울대공원

* Olympus PEN EE-3 / Kodak Professional ULTRA COLOR 400
이러한 사진들이 가능합니다.
처음 생각나는 것은, 경제성 ! 카메라를 들어보면 휴대성! 아버지 어릴적에는 동네 사진관에서 수학여행이나 소풍갈때 100원을 주고 하루 대여가 가능했다고 합니다. 2차대전때 그 휴대성과 간편함에 종군기자들이 많이 휴대하였다는 글도 읽은적이 있는데요. 어쨌든 여러가지 면에서 뭐랄까, 왠지모를 소박함과 옛스러움이 묻어나는 카메라입니다.
*Olympus PEN EE-3 (올림푸스 펜 EE-3) 사양
Lens : 3군 4매의 D.Zuiko 28mm F3.5의 고정초점식 렌즈
- 3종류의 렌즈를 4장 써서 구성하였으며 렌즈의 명칭은 D.Zuiko,
- 렌즈와 필름간 거리 : 28mm이고 최대 조리개 F3.5~22
ISO : iso25~iso100
ShutterSpeed : 1/40~1/125

올림푸스 펜 EE-3(olympus pen ee-3)의 EE는 Electronic Eye를 의미합니다. 즉 노출계인데, 렌즈 둘레에 셀레늄 광소자로 된 노출계가 달려있어 정확한 측광이 가능합니다. 이 셀레늄 소자를 이용해 일종의 트릭을 적용할 수 있는데요. 셀레늄 소자를 손가락으로 조금 가리면 노출오버된 사진을 얻을 수 있습니다. 카메라 노출계를 실제 보다 어둡다고 인식시켜 속이는 셈이지요.
*올림푸스 펜((olympus pen) 커뮤니티 및 중고거래 사이트
싸이월드 올림푸스 펜((olympus pen) 커뮤니티 펜매니악: penee3.cyworld.com
올림푸스 펜 EE-3((olympus pen EE-3)의 중고시세는 상태에 따라 3.5~15만원까지 형성되어있습니다.
Now on sale 게시판을 보니 올림푸스 펜 외에 기타 하프프레임 카메라들이 보입니다.
*Olympus pen(올림푸스 펜) 의 다른 시리즈들입니다.
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See also: www.olympus.co.jp/en/corc/history/camera/pen.cfm?ote=1
*more info : http://www.camerapedia.org/wiki/Olympus_Pen













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